We had one
last day on my Oaxaca at Christmastime tour based out of our Oaxaca City hotel
on December 30. It’s always a fun day as we venture a bit farther afield,
driving southeastward on the Panamerican Highway towards the Pacific coast at
Tehuantepec. Just a few kilometers beyond the town of Matatlán, considered the
birthplace of mezcal, the highway goes over a low pass (reaching only as high
as scrub oaks mixed with mountain-mahogany and other dense shrubbery). It then
begins to descend, entering TDF – tropical deciduous forest, which is very
deciduous this time of year – dominated by a shocking diversity of giant
columnar cacti.
Using an
article by David Yetman titled “On the Trail of Oaxaca's Great Cacti” in the Cactus
and Succulent Journal, I’ve attempted to identify these two species as Escontria chiotilla (L) and Pilosocereus quadricentralis (R).
Appreciating
the diversity of giant cactus is the Gray-breasted Woodpecker.
One of the
more conspicuous species here (and conspicuously absent from the extremely
close Oaxaca Valley) is White-lored Gnatcatcher.
We often
miss Pileated Flycatcher, as they are mostly silent and very furtive in the
undergrowth this time of year, but this one called on its own and responded aggressively
to playback of the song.
We had a few
Plain-capped Starthroats, normally found at much lower elevations this time of
year and a write-in species on our 14-year-old master list for this tour.
The
vegetation here is stark and leafless this time of year, but a few things are
blooming. This is a “goatbush” which I label as Castela cf. retusa, not
being sure of the species.
This tree in
the bombax family (actually now lumped into the mallow family) appears to be Ceiba aesculifolia.
This is a Beaucarnia sp., usually called
ponytail-palm, and related to agaves, aloes, and sotol.
We were back
in the Oaxaca valley where we had lunch at a restaurant that produces small
quantities of mezcal. They have landscaped with native plants including this
blooming Myrtillocactus schenckii.
In the same
cactus was this Tillandsia sp.
bromeliad.
We then
visited the small but distinctive ruins of Mitla, made famous by these
geometric designs in the façade.
I looked up
into a hole in the ceiling of the ruins to discover this paper wasp nest.
Our last
birding stop was the Zapotec ruins of Yagul, where we had two new species:
Common Ground-Dove and White-tailed Hawk.
But our
final stop of the tour which featured only a wintering Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
was this spectacular 2000-plus-year-old Taxodium
mucronatum, known as the Tule Tree.
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