I’ve just
returned home from leading my 11th Oaxaca at Christmastime tour.
It’s a truly fabulous mix of birds and culture, even though my brain is really
quite fixated 100% in nature. In fact, the number of hours spent birding per
day is probably lower on this tour than any other in the WINGS catalog. But it
is indeed a birding tour, and a few past participants (who didn’t read the
detailed tour information) have actually complained that there was too much
birding and not enough time off.
I’ll post
some nature photos soon, but for starters here are some from the peak cultural
experience this time of year – the Noche de Rábanos. This was the 119th
anniversary of this unique radish carving competition. Carved displays of
radishes are placed along 2 1/2 sides of the town square (the zócalo), and 1 1/2 sides are displays in
the categories of corn husk and dried flower arrangements.
The downtown
area is extremely festive this time of year, with many vendors selling
handicrafts (as well as the latest fads in plastic holiday crap). In the
afternoon our driver dropped us off near the square and we passed the Cathedral
with its huge decorated tree.
We got in
line at 4:50 p.m. to enter the raised platform giving one an unimpeded view of
the displays. They opened the walkway at 5:00 p.m., but the line was already 1
1/2 blocks long. We finally entered the platform at 6:35, and by that time the
line snaked up and down the block six times.
The first of
two radish categories was traditional – displaying cultural traditions such as
dances, churches, town festivals, etc.
This one
actually depicts the Noche de Rábanos itself.
I’m always
amazed at the creativity of the open category.
A Dream with
the Gods
The Axolotls
were by far my favorite. I’ve always wanted to see one in the wild (it was one
of my Safari Animal Cards which I collected when I was 10 years old), but it
may actually have gone extinct in the wild only in the past decade.
There are
also corn husks displays, this one titled The Mixed Symphonic Concerto of The
Oaxacan Grasshoppers.
This was the
last of the displays, in the straw flower category, titled A Dancing Nagual.
(Look up nagual in Wikipedia.) The artist was clearly extremely proud of his
creation and we were very touched by his appreciation of the time we spent
admiring it.
We could
probably fill this tour every year, but I’m so addicted to Christmas Bird
Counts (and like to spend Christmas with family from time to time), so I’ve
decided I’m offering this tour only every other year. My next tour to Oaxaca at
Christmastime will be December 2018, but there’s a chance I could be doing a
private trip there during the warmer and wetter summer months before then.
Rich, what a great description of a such a fun night! And I think the tour descriptions in the Wings literature captured this mixture of culture and birding exactly right. What a perfect balance. Oh...and I love the photos! Thanks!
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