Saturday, October 3, 2015

Marvelous Mato Grosso WINGS Tour: Day 1 at Cristalino Jungle Lodge

August 20, 2015

This morning was our turn at Tower II, the 53-meter tall canopy tower across the river. Activity wasn’t bad, and we had distant views of a Pompadour Cotinga, mostly just in flight, as one highlight. A very close Southern Scrub-Flycatcher and a Layard’s Woodcreeper (recently split from Lineated) were also memorable. The only photo I took worth keeping though was this Spangled Cotinga.
Spangled Cotinga

On the way back we birded a forest trail that was very quiet, but a highlight for me was spotting this Snow-capped Manakin nest. Notice the white Rhizomorpha fungus it incorporated with plant and moss fibers. Many species of birds use this fungus for some reason, and Bare-necked Fruitcrow apparently makes its nest solely from it.
Snow-capped Manakin, Rhizomorpha

Back at the lodge for lunch and afternoon break, I found that the Uroderma sp. tent-making bats had returned, making a new nest in the Phenakospermum stand by the old kitchen. Yesterday I failed to find them noticing that one of the staff had cut down the leaves they were using two weeks ago. I made a point this evening of letting the manager, owner, and at least a couple staff know that cutting these plants was a no-no.
Uroderma sp.

Of course, the Saccopteryx bilineata, White-lined Sac-winged Bats were reliably under their undisturbed eves of the leaders’ dorm.
Saccopteryx bilineata, White-lined Sac-winged Bat

Puddle party action by the boat dock continues with lots of pierids but not many swallowtails or skippers, but this Baeotus aeilus, Amazon Beauty, did at least provide some relief from the yellows and whites.
Baeotus aeilus, Amazon Beauty

Yesterday afternoon and much of today Fabrice and I were annoyed by the noises made from a nesting pair of Palm Tanagers on our roof, right by the screen that is supposed to allow accumulating heat below the ceiling to escape. Just as we were preparing to head out for the afternoon I noticed how unusually loud the insistent begging was from one of the chicks, and then I noticed it next to my bed and my tangle of recharging cables. It had been there for a while, leaving quite a mess. Considering Palm Tanager rather a weed among birds, I didn’t feel the need to give it any special attention, so I just left it under the palm shrub in the shade outside our room, expecting that its begging shrieks would eventually attract the feeding urges of the parents.
Palm Tanager

On my afternoon outing I took my group to the Manakin Trail through igapó forest, a seasonally flooded forest that has very well-drained soil and therefore has a very open understory and doesn’t remain muddy (unlike várzea in much of the Amazon basin). On the trail we saw few birds, but a noisy family of Red-throated Caracaras did entertain us and allow close approach.
Red-throated Caracara

The trail ends in a low sump that still had some water, indicating it had been an unusually wet and long rainy season (we are near the end of the dry season now, and in most years past this site has been totally dry by this date). We approached the pond very quietly but still caught only glimpses of a very shy Sunbittern that disappeared into the forest. But our sneaking did pay off with fabulous views of a White-throated Tinamou that came up for a drink just as we were arriving. I have heard this species a few times at Cristalino but this was the first time I’d seen one. I didn’t manage any photos, but I noticed the white speckling in plumage, a clinching field mark. After it left, we came out into the open next to the pond and watched the canopy and undergrowth for anything coming in for a drink. We did see Dot-backed Antbird bathing, and a Long-billed Woodcreeper came into the trees overhead.

This evening after diner I offered to take people down to the rocks to see what fish and other critters we could spot. One was this young Caiman crocodilus, Spectacled Caiman, which we could have caught.
Caiman crocodilus, Spectacled Caiman

There are many species of armored catfish here, but they are difficult to photograph and almost impossible to identify. This is in the family Loricariidae.
Loricariidae

This Fredius reflexifrons freshwater crab was fully out of the water to feed on something on the rocks.
Fredius reflexifrons

There are tiny freshwater shrimp if you look closely.
freshwater shrimp

I turned over a small rock to find this ghastly larva, probably a dobsonfly.
dobsonfly larva

On the way back to the rooms I flushed this Pristimantis sp., a frog formerly in the huge genus Eleutherodactylus. This species wasn’t identified by the herp survey that took place here more than a decade ago and could be an undescribed species for all I know.
Pristimantis sp.

Meanwhile at the moth sheet, where I took dozens of photographs, here are some highlights:

Pseudautomeris sp., a saturniid silk moth. I had never seen this one before and did a thorough search of Automeris species before I finally found the correct genus; I still don’t know the species.
Pseudautomeris sp.

Idalus sp., an arctiine moth
Idalus sp.

a wasp-mimic arctiine moth, possibly a Cosmosoma sp.
Cosmosoma sp.

Eulepidotis cf. persimilis.
Eulepidotis cf. persimilis

a geometrid moth, an emerald in the subfamily Geometrinae
emerald moth, Geometrinae


and a probable geometrid moth that was totally new to me.

Marvelous Mato Grosso WINGS Tour: Arrival in Alta Floresta and Transfer to Cristalino Jungle Lodge

August 19, 2015

Our punctual flight yesterday arrived in Alta Floresta with great views of the city below. This was one of the first areas of the vast Amazonian rainforest that fell to government incentives to settle in the 1970’s. Intact rainforest is still only a short drive away, fortunately.
Alta Floresta

We had an afternoon to bird around the grounds of the Floresta Amazonica Hotel very close to the airport, but the pair of Harpy Eagles that nested in the forest fragment here at least three times since 2005 seem to have moved on. As I did for my last group, I quickly found an antlion larva. Despite its being so abundant and widespread, with nearly everyone familiar with the pitfall traps they make, surprisingly few people have actually seen the actual animal.
antlion, Myrmeleontidae

A late evening attempt to bring in a Great Potoo that I heard just before dinner behind the hotel turned in to a short walk down the forest trail to look for scorpions with my scorpion light. Finally, I spotted this tiny thick-tailed scorpion, resembling Tityus silvestris in its speckled appearance, but lacking other field marks and most certainly not that species.
Tityus cf. silvestris
Tityus cf. silvestris

We also saw a Crested Owl and this ctenid spider, related to the highly venomous wandering spiders.
Cetnidae

This morning we birded our way to Cristalino Jungle Lodge before lunch, stopping for the Red-bellied Macaw show at the usual buritizal – a grove of Mauritia flexuosa palms on the road north. We then made a couple stops on the road through Cristalino’s forest patch on the west side of the Teles Pires river. One of our first birds was rather a surprise, this Rose-breasted Chat singing just a couple feet above the ground in a thicket of dry weeds and vines right next to the road. I’d only ever seen them in dense, green vine tangles, difficult to see overhead on dark forest trails.
Rose-breasted Chat

Our last bit of birding before lunch was done from the boat as we crossed to the east side of the Teles Pires River and then up the Cristalino. This Capped Heron posed nicely for photos, unlike on my last tour.
Capped Heron

We also had this Gray-necked Wood-Rail, boldly foraging in broad daylight (which they do commonly in the Pantanal, but no so much here).
Gray-necked Wood-Rail

We got lucky with this pair of Lutra longicaudis, Neotropical River Otters, one crunching on a bony armored catfish (plecostomus to pisciculturists).
Lutra longicaudis, Neotropical River Otter

Arriving at the lodge, I was pleased to see that my efforts to maintain a puddle party during the last tour were still effective – Statira, Straight-lined, Apricot, and Orange-barred Sulphurs.

Upon arrival, the head of hospitality gives the group an orientation talk while they enjoy a welcome drink of a local fruit juice.

In the afternoon we took a relaxing boat on the river downstream.

We watched sunset on the Teles Pires before stopping on shore for a very cooperative Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl and heading upstream with spotlights to look for nightlife on the banks of the Cristalino, where we spotted a Great Potoo.

Back at the lodge, all the guests were fascinated with this line of Eciton burchellii, Swarming Army Ants , crossing the trail between the rooms and the common area. We weren’t certain exactly what was going on, why so many of the ants had dedicated themselves to making a barricade on either side of what would normally be a single file line of ants relocating the colony. My guess is that they perceived the well-swept portion of the trail a dangerous crossing of sorts.
Eciton burchellii

Meanwhile at the moth sheet…

I had written the lodge management about the possibility of putting up a moth sheet in a better location (open to the sky on one side rather than deep in the forest on a trail), and using a brighter light with shorter wavelengths, rather than the dim fluorescent bulb they had earlier in the month. As it turns out, Edson Endrigo had arrived with a group he was guiding with exactly such a light, and with my suggestion they relocated the sheet at the edge of the clearing with the majority of the guest rooms. It worked like a charm, and there were as many moths tonight as there were during my entire week earlier in the month.

This big sphinx moth is the recognizable Pachylia darceta.
Pachylia darceta

This is a Megalopyge sp., one of those flannel moths with caterpillars you shouldn’t touch.
Megalopyge sp., moth

I’d like to think that some day there will be a field guide to all these pretty little pyraloid moths.

Pyraloidea, moth

There are a lot more photos available online of arctiine moths, so this one I was able to identify as Trichromia atta.
Trichromia atta, Erebidae, Arctiinae

This is also an arctiine moth, Uranophora walkeri.
Uranophora walkeri, Erebidae, Arctiinae


This one I recognized as an Acraga sp., family Dalceridae. The caterpillars of these are rarely seen jewels, looking like colorful collections of transparent glass beads.
Acraga sp., Dalceridae

Marvelous Mato Grosso WINGS Tour: Chapada dos Guimarães

August 17, 2015

I had just two nights in Cuiabá after my tour, not nearly enough time to catch up on emails, process photos, and do post-tour materials. But I did find a place to get my hair and beard cut a 15-minute walk from the hotel, and paid daily visits to the ATM to stock up on reais for the upcoming tour. All the participants arrived on time, as did Fabrice Schmitt, my co-leader for this group of 11 participants for the next two weeks.

Here’s Fabrice Schmitt, my friend and co-leader, and one of South America’s most adventuresome and accomplished birders.
Fabrice Schmitt

We’ve had a great start in the Chapada dos Guimarães, just like the last tour had, but distinctly different. Last time we had a super cooperative Collared Crescentchest and had to practically beat the Chapada Flycatchers away with our tripods. This time the same crescentchest wasn’t so cooperative, and we couldn’t buy a Chapada Flycatcher. In fact, yesterday afternoon we found the more widespread Suiriri Flycatchers (Campo Suiriri), a very close relative, and my first one here.

But White-banded Tanagers were even more cooperative this time, such as this one on a fence.
White-banded Tanager

This Campo Flicker was one of a pair that greeted us yesterday morning on our pre-breakfast outing to the short scrub that harbors so many specialties.
Campo Flicker

We also had Curl-crested Jays here (no sign of them on the last tour), as well as Spot-breasted Puffbird. Every outing is different, one reason we all continue to watch birds.

Because of the timing of flights, we had a bit more time on our hotel grounds at Pousada do Parque, and we had this silent Planalto Slaty-Antshrike on the first afternoon’s walk.
Planalto Slaty-Antshrike

A pair of Tropical Screech-Owls are nesting in a cavity below eye-level in a tree in the garden, and we could peer in and see the female with at least one large chick. But after dinner last night, this one was by the restaurant, presumably hunting rodents coming to the papaya remnants left by birds below the tree. It allowed us to approach within a couple feet.
Tropical Screech-Owl

But this Tropical Screech-Owl was a quarter mile away this morning, undoubtedly a different territory. I had used a recording I made two years ago in the Pantanal to try to stir up a mob, as there were a few flycatchers and a calling Band-tailed Manakin we hadn’t seen yet. But before long, this larger bird flew in abruptly but silently at eye-level and perched next to the road, just within a few feet of the group. We were flabbergasted.
Tropical Screech-Owl

On another walk we had this Philaethria dido, Southern Green Longwing.
Philaethria dido, Southern Green Longwing

And this Amethyst Woodstar perched up during a session of Ferruginous Pymgy-Owl imitations (which also brought in a Ferruginous Pymgy-Owl).
Amethyst Woodstar

Oddly, the Crab-eating Foxes which were so easy on the last tour were very elusive this time, but I did at least get a photo of the Cavia aperea, Brazilian Guinea Pigs, that forage on the grass by the pool.
Cavia aperea, Brazilian Guinea Pig

And we found out about this Coendou prehensilis, a Brazilian Porcupine, that frequents the coconut palm by the pool but appears only after 10:00 each evening.
Coendou prehensilis, Brazilian Porcupine

I was excited to come across this Passiflora mansoi in bloom, the first time I’ve seen one since my first visit here in 2006. It’s a very strange passionflower in being a slender, scraggly woody shrub with weak stems, nothing like the tendril-clad, climbing vines of so many other species. I suspect it’s very common here but blooms only with recent rains which become common only later in the year.
Passiflora mansoi

On our full day here yesterday we stayed until sunset on the Cavernas de Aroe Jari road, where Greater Rheas and Red-legged Seriemas continued to be reliable.


On our way to the airport this morning – we’re headed to Cristalino Jungle Lodge – we made one last stop in the Chapada where one of our group spotted this Tropidurus torquatus, an Amazon Lava Lizard.
Tropidurus torquatus, Amazon Lava Lizard.