






But the travel didn’t take all day, and we had a total of 3 hours’ worth of birding today – and tallied 94 species in the process.
First we birded near Puerto Maldonado, checking the side road where we had the Purus Jacamars yesterday. They were still there today.
But in addition to them was also a family group of White-throated Jacamars, a lifebird for everyone present. Many thanks to Barry Walker and other birding tour groups who staked these out for us.
We then birded some open country nearby where we found Southern Caracara and Grassland Sparrow. Yesterday we also had Southern Lapwing and Burrowing Owl near here, both recent immigrants to this area, once all rainforest (and again thanks to birders who came before us; it sometimes does pay to be the last ones out).
Then it was time to show up for our flight to Lima.
A shock to the system was the cool, marine air that greeted us. And lots of very, very different birds. Here we are in the Lima suburb of Ventanilla.
Peruvian Pelicans (like Brown Pelicans, only much larger, and formally split from them just two years ago).
A Great Grebe on a nest. It sports an amazingly long neck.
A view of the marsh, which also hosted many Common Gallinules, Slate-colored Coots, White-tufted Grebes, Cinnamon Teal, and Black-necked Stilts. A nearby mudflat had Killdeer, a Western Sandpiper, a Collared Plover (a rarity this far south on the coast), and Yellowish Pipit. Sadly, we did not find any Peruvian Thick-knees here.
Some seawatching also produced many Peruvian Boobies, a Red-legged and two Guanay Cormorants, an endless stream of Kelp, Gray, and Belcher’s Gulls, and a single Elegant Tern. Impressive was a huge, swirling flock of Sanderling over the distant end of the beach, probably numbering well over 10,000 birds. Big migrating flocks of Black-bellied Plovers and Ruddy Turnstone also joined them.
Here’s a rundown of the supporting cast, a really great group of people to travel with.
And of course, I shouldn't forget Gary Rosenberg, the leader, and the many drivers and boat pilots.
By 5:30 we were in our 40-foot boat, huddled under ponchos, and bearing down for what looked to be a very long day.
But the one shower we rode through was short-lived, and the sky began improving right away. The cloud formations were unlike any I had ever seen.
Time passed quickly enough, with the scenery racing by. The closer we got to Puerto Maldonado, the more we saw these dredgers looking for gold. There were a lot.
This clambering vine had buried itself in purple blossoms.
We didn't disembark for birding, but the boat did slow down a few times when we passed by birds of interest – such as a group of Jabirus (a gigantic stork), and a large piece of driftwood decorated with 70 Sand-colored Nighthawks. We ended up with 68 species during the ride.
Eight and a half hours later we were disembarking in Laberinto – the first town with a road. Here we met our bus and driver, Fruti.
We bid farewell to Carlos and Pancho who had to turn around and make the 24-hour boat ride back to Atalaya.
We still had a few hours in the afternoon heat to look for birds. One place we stopped was this Moriche palm grove. There are several birds that specialize in this one species of palm.
Such as this Red-bellied Macaw.
We then birded a side road just on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado where we found a family group of Purus Jacamars.
It was strange being in a busy town after all these days in the jungle. This is the primary form of the taxis here.